"Is it real gold?" and "what does 9K mean?" are two of the questions I hear most. The answers matter, because the karat of a piece affects its color, its durability and its value, and because many antique pieces that look like solid gold are something else entirely. I'm Tiffany, a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) and a GIA-certified diamond grader, and this is my guide to understanding gold in antique and vintage jewelry.
What a karat means
Pure gold is 24 karat. The karat tells you how many parts in 24 are pure gold, with the rest made up of other metals, which make the gold harder and change its color. Hallmarks often show the same thing as a number out of 1,000.
- 24K: pure gold, too soft for most jewelry.
- 22K (916): 91.6% gold. Rich and deep yellow, often used for wedding bands.
- 18K (750): 75% gold. The classic choice for fine jewelry and engagement rings.
- 15K (625): 62.5% gold. A British standard used only from 1854 to 1932.
- 14K (585): 58.5% gold. Common in American jewelry, and the British standard since 1932.
- 12K (500): 50% gold. A British standard from 1854 to 1932, now rarely seen.
- 10K (417): about 41.7% gold. The lowest standard recognized for gold in the US.
- 9K (375): 37.5% gold. Very common in British antique and vintage jewelry.
Why British antiques are different
For much of its history, British gold jewelry had to be 22K, joined by 18K from 1798. In 1854, Britain added 9K, 12K and 15K, which made gold jewelry affordable for a growing middle class. That is why so much Victorian and Edwardian jewelry is 9K or 15K. In 1932, the 12K and 15K standards were replaced by 14K. This makes the karat a useful dating clue: a piece marked 15 was almost certainly made between 1854 and 1932. Read more in our guides to British hallmarks and dating antique jewelry.
American jewelry, by contrast, is rarely below 10K, and 14K has long been the most common standard. Example of British 15K: Edwardian 1911 Pink Tourmaline and Seed Pearl 15K Gold Bangle.
Why gold comes in different colors
The metals mixed with gold change its color. More copper gives warm rose gold, which was especially popular in British 9K Victorian and Edwardian jewelry. More silver gives a paler, greener yellow. White gold, made with metals such as palladium or nickel, was developed in the 1910s and became popular in the 1920s. Example: Victorian 9K Rose Gold Engraved Heart Locket.
Which karat is best?
There is no single right answer. Higher karats are richer in color but softer, while lower karats are harder wearing but paler. For an engagement ring, 18K offers a beautiful balance of color and strength, and 14K is a little harder still. A 9K antique ring can be a lovely and more affordable choice, though its color is softer. With any antique ring, the condition of the setting matters as much as the karat. Read our guide to choosing an antique engagement ring.
When it looks like gold but isn't solid gold
Many pieces have a layer of gold over another metal. These can be beautiful and are often collectible, but it is important to know what you are buying.
Rolled gold: A sheet of gold is bonded to a base metal with heat and pressure, then rolled thin. Rolled gold was widely used for Victorian and Edwardian chains, lockets and bracelets, and is often marked "RG" or "rolled gold". In the US, "rolled gold plate" can describe a thinner layer than gold-filled. Example: Antique Victorian Rolled Gold Long Guard Chain.
Gold-filled: Made in the same way as rolled gold, but in the US the gold must make up at least one-twentieth of the total weight. Gold-filled pieces are often marked with the proportion and karat, such as "1/20 14K GF". The thick layer means gold-filled jewelry lasts well and keeps its color. Example: Turquoise 14K Gold-Filled Beaded Necklace.
Back and front: Many Victorian and Edwardian lockets were made with a sheet of 9K gold on the front and back and a base metal core, giving the look of a solid gold locket at a lower cost. Read more in our guide to antique lockets.
Gold plating: A very thin layer of gold is applied to another metal, usually by electroplating, a process patented by the Elkington firm of Birmingham in 1840. Plating is far thinner than rolled gold or gold-filled and can wear away over time, revealing the metal underneath. Look for marks such as "GP" (gold plated) or "HGE" (heavy gold electroplate).
Silver gilt: Silver coated with gold. Antique silver gilt is common on boxes, trinket pots, brooches and chains. Example: 1919 Sterling Silver Gilt Lidded Trinket Pot.
Vermeil: Sterling silver plated with a thick layer of gold. In the US, vermeil must use gold of at least 10K, at least 2.5 microns thick, which makes it far more durable than ordinary gold plating. In the UK there is no legal definition, but jewelers follow the same standard.
Pinchbeck: Not gold at all, but an 18th-century alloy of copper and zinc designed to look like it. See our materials glossary for more.
How to tell what you have
Start with the marks. A karat stamp or British hallmark usually indicates solid gold, while marks such as RG, GF, GP or HGE indicate a gold layer. Look closely at edges and high points, where plating tends to wear through first. Remember that many antique pieces are unmarked, so a jeweler's acid test or an XRF test may be needed to be sure.
Every piece we sell is described with its metal and karat. If you have a question about a piece, you can book a video consultation and I'll talk you through it.