Antique jewelry has survived a century or more, and with a little care it will last for many more. The most important rule is a simple one: be gentle. Methods that suit modern jewelry can damage antique pieces, so here's how I recommend cleaning yours at home.

Before you start

Check what your piece is made of. Some antique jewelry should never go near water, and knowing which is which will save you from mistakes.

• Closed-back settings: many Georgian and early Victorian pieces have stones set in closed backs, sometimes with a foil behind them to add color and sparkle. Water can seep in and spoil the foil, so never soak these. Wipe them gently instead.
• Soft and porous stones: pearls, opals, turquoise, coral, jet and amber are delicate. Wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth, then dry them. Never soak them or use chemicals.
• Emeralds are often oiled to improve their appearance, and soaking or heat can remove it.

Diamonds, sapphires and rubies in open settings

For these harder stones in open claw settings, a quick, gentle clean is fine:

• Mix a few drops of mild dish soap into a bowl of lukewarm water.
• Dip the piece briefly and clean around the stones with a very soft brush, like a baby's toothbrush.
• Rinse in clean lukewarm water, with the sink plugged, and pat dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

Gold and silver

A soft jewelry polishing cloth is all most gold and silver needs. For silver, use a cloth made for silver, and polish lightly. Over-polishing can soften engraved details and remove the gentle patina that many collectors love.

What to avoid

• Ultrasonic and steam cleaners: the vibration and heat can loosen old settings and damage delicate stones. Leave these to your jeweler.
• Toothpaste, baking soda and household cleaners: they're abrasive or harsh and can scratch gold and dull stones.
• Chlorine and chemicals: take your jewelry off before swimming, cleaning or using hand sanitizer, perfume or lotion.

Storing your jewelry

Store each piece separately in a soft pouch or a lined box, so harder stones can't scratch softer pieces. Pearls prefer to breathe, so keep them out of airtight bags.

When to see a jeweler

If a stone feels loose, a claw looks worn or a clasp isn't closing properly, stop wearing the piece and have it checked. For engagement rings, we recommend a professional check at least once a year. For pieces bought from us, we offer complimentary cleaning and claw checks. See our Warranty & Repairs page for details.

For more on looking after your pieces, see our jewelry care guide.

Tiffany is the founder of Mayveda, a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) and a GIA-certified diamond grader.