The Victorians rarely said things directly, and nowhere is that more beautiful than in their jewelry. A brooch of forget-me-nots, a ring of ivy leaves or a spray of lily of the valley could carry a message that the giver and the wearer both understood. I'm Tiffany, a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) and a GIA-certified diamond grader, and the language of flowers is one of my favorite things to explain when a floral piece arrives.
Where the language of flowers came from
The idea of sending messages with flowers reached Europe in the early 18th century, when Lady Mary Wortley Montagu wrote home from Constantinople describing a Turkish custom of flowers and objects carrying coded meanings. In 1819, a French book, Le Langage des Fleurs, published under the name Charlotte de la Tour, turned the idea into a dictionary, and dozens of English versions followed. By the Victorian era, floral dictionaries were found in drawing rooms across Britain and America, and Kate Greenaway's illustrated Language of Flowers of 1884 became a classic.
One word of caution: the meanings were never fixed. Different books gave the same flower different meanings, so the definitions below are those found in Greenaway's book and other popular Victorian dictionaries, rather than the only ones.
Queen Victoria and the language of flowers
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert embraced the language of flowers throughout their marriage. One of the first gifts Albert sent to his fiancée, in November 1839, was a gold and porcelain brooch in the form of a sprig of orange blossom, a flower long associated with betrothal, which he designed himself. At their wedding in 1840, Victoria wore no diamonds on her head, only a simple wreath of real orange blossom. Albert went on to give her matching orange blossom earrings, a second brooch and a headdress, and she wore pieces from the set on their wedding anniversary for the rest of their married life. See the brooch at the Royal Collection.
Victoria's choice set the fashion for generations of brides, and orange blossom jewelry became hugely popular. Another tradition began with the royal couple too: a sprig of myrtle, the flower of love, has been included in the bouquet of every royal bride since the 1850s.
The flowers, A to Z
Acorns and oak
Victorian meaning: life and immortality for the acorn, strength for the oak.
From a tiny acorn grows a mighty oak, so acorns were a natural wish for a long and strong life, popular on charms and christening gifts. Example: Vintage 1960s Gold Acorn Charm Necklace.
Anemone
Victorian meaning: forsaken.
In Greek myth, the anemone sprang up where the goddess Aphrodite wept for her lost love Adonis, so the flower carried a note of sorrow and abandonment.
Bluebell
Victorian meaning: constancy.
The English bluebell, carpeting woodlands every spring, stood for steadfast love that returns faithfully year after year.
Camellia
Victorian meaning: perfected loveliness for white, unpretending excellence for red.
The camellia was the height of fashion in the mid-19th century, and Alexandre Dumas's 1848 novel La Dame aux Camélias, later the inspiration for Verdi's La Traviata, made it one of the most romantic flowers of the age.
Carnation
Victorian meaning: it depended on the color. A deep red carnation sighed "Alas for my poor heart", while a striped one meant refusal.
Carnations show how carefully the Victorians read color. The same flower could say yes, no or something in between.
Chrysanthemum
Victorian meaning: "I love" for red, truth for white, and slighted love for yellow.
Chrysanthemums became fashionable in Britain in the later 19th century, part of the Victorian fascination with all things Japanese.
Clover
Victorian meaning: "Be mine" for the four-leaf clover.
The rare four-leaf clover was both a lucky charm and a love token, while the three-leaf shamrock was the emblem of Ireland. Examples: Victorian Gold and Pearl Clover Brooch and Victorian Shamrock and Pearl Brooch.
Daisy
Victorian meaning: innocence.
The daisy is the flower of "he loves me, he loves me not". Daisy cluster rings, with petals of diamonds around a center stone, were a much-loved engagement ring style. Example: Victorian Old Cut Diamond Daisy Cluster Ring.
Fern
Victorian meaning: fascination.
The Victorians were so passionate about ferns that the craze had its own name, pteridomania. Ferns appear engraved on lockets and brooches of the period. Example: Victorian Fern and Ivy Silver Locket.
Forget-me-not
Victorian meaning: true love.
A German legend tells of a knight walking by a river with his lady. As he reached down to pick her a posy of the little blue flowers, his heavy armor pulled him into the water, and he threw the flowers to her, crying "Forget me not". Perhaps the most beloved of all sentimental flowers, its blue was often captured in turquoise or enamel. Examples: Vintage 1960s Forget-Me-Not Silver Locket, and our own Ada Forget-Me-Not Signet Ring.
Fuchsia
Victorian meaning: taste.
Queen Victoria had a pendant and earrings made in the form of fuchsias, set with the milk teeth of her youngest daughter, Princess Beatrice.
Heartsease
Victorian meaning: "You occupy my thoughts".
Heartsease, the little wild pansy, had a romantic reputation long before the Victorians. In Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream, under its old name love-in-idleness, its juice is the love potion that causes so much mischief.
Honeysuckle
Victorian meaning: generous and devoted affection.
Honeysuckle twines tightly around whatever it grows on, a perfect image of a loving embrace.
Hyacinth
Victorian meaning: constancy for the blue hyacinth.
On her fourteenth birthday, the young Princess Victoria noted in her journal that her mother had given her a hyacinth brooch.
Ivy
Victorian meaning: fidelity and marriage.
Ivy clings and never lets go, which made it one of the most popular motifs in Victorian love and wedding jewelry. Example: Victorian Silver Star and Ivy Locket.
Jasmine
Victorian meaning: amiability.
Sweetly scented white jasmine stood for a gentle, friendly nature.
Laurel
Victorian meaning: glory.
Since ancient Greece and Rome, wreaths of laurel crowned victors and poets, which is why we still speak of resting on our laurels.
Lilac
Victorian meaning: the first emotions of love for purple lilac.
A sprig of lilac was the perfect way to hint at a new romance.
Lily
Victorian meaning: purity and sweetness for the white lily.
A favorite flower for brides and christenings, the white lily appears in Victorian jewelry and in religious art.
Lily of the valley
Victorian meaning: the return of happiness.
Its little white bells appear in spring, a sweet message of hope after a long winter, and a lovely choice for a bride. Example: Vintage 1940s Lily of the Valley Enamel Brooch.
Marigold
Victorian meaning: grief.
Despite its cheerful color, the marigold carried one of the saddest meanings in the floral dictionaries.
Mistletoe
Victorian meaning: "I surmount difficulties".
The custom of kissing under the mistletoe was a much-loved part of the Victorian Christmas.
Myrtle
Victorian meaning: love.
Sacred to Venus in ancient times, myrtle has been carried in the bouquet of every royal bride since the 1850s.
Orange blossom
Victorian meaning: "Your purity equals your loveliness", and chastity.
Made famous by Queen Victoria's wedding wreath, orange blossom became the bridal flower of the age, worn in hair, on gowns and in jewelry.
Pansy
Victorian meaning: thoughts.
The name comes from the French pensée, meaning thought, so a pansy brooch said "I think of you". Example: Vintage 1950s David Andersen Enamel Pansy Brooch.
Poppy
Victorian meaning: consolation for the red poppy.
Long linked with sleep and comfort, the red poppy later took on a new meaning as the symbol of remembrance after the First World War.
Primrose
Victorian meaning: early youth.
One of the first flowers of an English spring, the primrose stood for youth and new beginnings.
Rose
Victorian meaning: love, with each color adding its own message.
The rose was the most universal flower message of all, but the Victorians paid close attention to its color.
Red rose: love.
White rose: "I am worthy of you".
Yellow rose: jealousy, so it was best avoided in a love letter.
Snowdrop
Victorian meaning: hope.
Pushing up through the snow in the depths of winter, the snowdrop was a natural symbol of hope.
Sweet pea
Victorian meaning: departure.
Sweet peas were a gentle way to say goodbye, or to thank a host at the end of a lovely visit.
Thistle
Victorian meaning: austerity, and the emblem of Scotland.
Queen Victoria's love of the Scottish Highlands made thistle jewelry hugely popular, especially in silver set with Scottish agates. Example: Victorian Silver Thistle Brooch and Earring Set.
Tulip
Victorian meaning: a declaration of love for the red tulip.
Few flowers made their message as plain as a red tulip.
Violet
Victorian meaning: faithfulness for the blue violet, modesty for the sweet violet.
Small, fragrant and often hidden among their leaves, violets were the flower of quiet devotion.
Wheat
Victorian meaning: riches.
Ears of wheat stood for prosperity and a good harvest, and appear on Victorian brooches as a wish for plenty.
All 36 flowers at a glance
Flowers in stone
Victorian jewelers often chose gemstones to match a flower's color: turquoise and blue enamel for forget-me-nots, pearls for lily of the valley, garnets and rubies for red roses. For more on the hidden meanings in antique jewelry, from snakes to anchors, read our guide to Victorian symbolism in jewelry. And if you'd like to keep reading, I've gathered my favorite books on love, symbolism and sentimental jewelry, including a charming little dictionary of flower meanings.
If a floral piece has caught your eye, I'd love to tell you more about it. You can browse our flower jewelry or book a video consultation with me.