Six books that unlock the hidden meanings in antique jewelry, from love rings and lockets to the language of flowers.
So much of the jewelry I love was made to say something. A forget-me-not on a brooch, a snake curled around a ring, a name pierced in silver: each one carried a message for the person who wore it. These are the books that taught me to read those messages, and they're the ones I return to whenever a piece arrives with a symbol I want to understand.
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Rings and love tokens
Rings: Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty, by Diana Scarisbrick
Diana Scarisbrick is one of the leading historians of rings, and this book is a joy. It explores rings as tokens of love, power and remembrance across the centuries, and it's the book I recommend to anyone choosing an antique engagement ring who wants to know the story behind it.
Best for: understanding what rings have meant through history.
The Power of Love: Jewels, Romance and Eternity, by Beatriz Chadour-Sampson
A beautiful book devoted entirely to jewelry made for love, from betrothal rings to sentimental lockets. It's full of romantic pieces and the stories behind them, and it makes a lovely gift for anyone planning a proposal.
Best for: romantics and anyone planning a proposal.
The secret language of symbols
Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry, by Amy Azzarito
If you've ever wondered why the Victorians loved snakes, swallows and hands, this is the book for you. It's an elegant, easy guide to the gems, charms and talismans of the period, and it's wonderful to dip into.
Best for: decoding Victorian symbols.
The Language of Flowers: A Miscellany, by Mandy Kirkby
The Victorians gave every flower a meaning, and those meanings appear again and again in their jewelry. This charming little book is my go-to whenever I want to know what a pansy, ivy leaf or forget-me-not was meant to say. For an illustrated introduction to 36 flowers and their Victorian meanings, read our guide to the language of flowers in Victorian jewelry.
Best for: reading the flowers on antique jewelry.
The details that tell the story
Victorian Silver Novelty Jewellery: Names and Mottoes, by Pamela M. Caunt
Victorian silver brooches spelling out names and sweet mottoes are some of the most personal pieces you can find. This collector's guide is a wonderful introduction to them, and a reminder of how much feeling went into even the simplest jewelry of the time. It's a specialist publication, so second-hand copies are the best way to find it.
Best for: collectors of sweetheart and name brooches.
Clasps: 4,000 Years of Fasteners in Jewellery, by Anna Tabakhova
An unexpected favorite. Clasps are easy to overlook, but they often hold clues to when and where a piece was made, and some are tiny works of art in their own right. This book shows thousands of years of them in glorious detail, and closes with a glossary of clasp types in date order.
Best for: anyone who loves the small details.
Wear the story
Every antique piece in our collection has a story, and part of the joy of wearing one is knowing what it was made to say. If a symbol in these books has caught your heart, I'd love to help you find a piece that carries it.
- Explore our antique jewelry gifts
- Explore our antique engagement rings
- Book a video consultation with me
More in this series: The Best Books for New Antique Jewelry Collectors, On My Desk: Reference Books for Identifying Antique Jewelry and Books for Aspiring Jewelry Designers.