The reference books I keep within reach for identifying antique jewelry, from hallmarks and gemstones to how pieces were made.
When a new piece arrives, the first thing I do is look closely: at the hallmarks, the stones, the setting, the clasp. Experience does most of the work, but these are the books I reach for to check a date mark, confirm a technique or put a name to something unusual. If you want to learn to look at antique jewelry the way a specialist does, these are the books to own.
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Hallmarks and terms
Jackson's Hallmarks (Pocket Edition), edited by Ian Pickford
If you buy one book from this list, make it this one. It covers English, Scottish and Irish silver and gold marks, and it's small enough to carry to a fair. A hallmark can tell you where a piece was assayed, the purity of the metal and often the year it was made, and this little book helps you read them.
Best for: reading British hallmarks.
An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, by Harold Newman
A wonderful A to Z of jewelry terms, from techniques and stones to styles and makers. Whenever I come across an unfamiliar word in an old catalog or auction listing, this is where I look first.
Best for: looking up unfamiliar terms.
Looking at Jewelry: A Guide to Terms, Styles, and Techniques, by Susanne Gänsicke and Yvonne J. Markowitz
A clear, compact guide that explains the techniques behind jewelry, such as enameling, granulation and different settings. It's the perfect companion for museum visits and for learning to see how a piece was made.
Best for: understanding how jewelry is made.
Stones and materials
The Jeweller's Directory of Gemstones, by Judith Crowe
A practical, well-illustrated guide to gemstones, their colors and their properties. It's an easy reference for anyone wanting to understand the stones they see in antique jewelry, from garnets to sapphires. In the US it's published as The Jeweler's Directory of Gemstones.
Best for: getting to know gemstones.
Identification and value
Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840–1950, by C. Jeanenne Bell
A long-standing identification and value guide, packed with photographs. It's especially helpful for jewelry from the Victorian era to the mid-twentieth century, and it answers many of the questions collectors ask most.
Best for: identifying pieces from 1840 to 1950.
The Price Guide to Jewellery: 3000 BC–1950 AD, by Michael Poynder
Michael Poynder's guide covers an enormous range of jewelry, period by period, with clear descriptions and plenty of images. The prices date from its publication in 1976, of course, but it remains a useful reference for identifying styles and understanding what makes one piece more desirable than another. His later Jewelry Reference and Price Guide is well worth looking out for too. Both are out of print, but second-hand copies turn up regularly.
Best for: a broad visual reference across the centuries.
Ask the expert
Books are a wonderful start, but if you'd like a second pair of eyes on a piece, I'm always happy to help. Every piece in our collection is checked by me as a Gem-A Fellow and GIA-certified diamond grader before it reaches you.
More in this series: The Best Books for New Antique Jewelry Collectors, Books on Love, Symbolism and Sentimental Jewelry and Books for Aspiring Jewelry Designers.