Toward the end of the Victorian era, a demand developed for quality handcrafted items, including jewelry. These pieces were bought from craftsmen and artists who were heavily influenced by nature, in reaction to the Industrial Revolution and mass production. The leaders of this movement, known as Arts and Crafts, included William Morris and John Ruskin. The Pre-Raphaelites looked back to an earlier, simpler period for their inspiration in painting and sculpture.
In France, a similar reaction led to Art Nouveau, a design style that flourished from around 1890 to 1910, during the period known as the Belle Époque.
Jewelry from this period features dragonflies, women with long flowing hair, flowers and leaves. The combination of woman and flower is known as the femme-fleur. Art Nouveau jewelry was made from gold and silver worked into soft curves, often set with opals and moonstones. Enameling was very popular. Other materials included horn, glass, bone and ivory. Insects such as dragonflies and butterflies were interpreted in many ways, along with orchids, irises, pansies, swans, peacocks and mythological creatures.