June babies, pearls are your birthstone, and with good reason. These luminous gems have captivated people for centuries, gracing everything from antique tiaras to modern minimalist necklaces. With so many varieties, the world of pearls can be tricky to navigate, so here is our guide.
Pearls: A Natural Wonder
Unlike gemstones, pearls are organic, formed inside mollusks such as oysters and mussels. When an irritant enters the shell, the mollusk secretes layers of nacre, an iridescent material, to coat it. Over time the nacre builds up and a pearl is formed.
Image source: originaleve.com
Natural vs Cultured Pearls
Traditionally, all pearls were natural, which made them extremely rare and expensive. The development of culturing techniques in the early 20th century transformed the pearl industry. Today most pearls are cultured, meaning a nucleus is placed inside the mollusk to start pearl formation. Cultured pearls are more affordable than natural pearls while sharing their beauty and luster.
Types of Pearls
- Freshwater pearls: Natural freshwater pearls from rivers and lakes appear in antique jewelry, particularly from the 1800s onward, and tend to have irregular, baroque shapes. Modern freshwater pearls are usually cultured and more uniform.
-
Saltwater pearls: Prized for their luster and round shapes, saltwater pearls are the stars of many antique and modern pieces. These include:
- Akoya pearls: classic Japanese cultured pearls known for their roundness and white or cream color, popular in vintage jewelry from the 1920s onward.
- South Sea pearls: large, luxurious pearls ranging from golden to silver, with a captivating orient. Watch National Geographic's video about South Sea pearls here.
- Tahitian pearls: also called black pearls, in dark tones often with hints of green, pink or purple. Popularized in the 20th century, they add drama to both modern and vintage pieces.
-
Specialty pearls:
- Baroque pearls: irregularly shaped pearls, particularly fashionable in the Renaissance and found frequently in antique jewelry.
- Blister pearls: formed against the inside of the shell, with a flat back and domed top. Used whole in antique jewelry, they are cut and assembled as mabe pearls for modern pieces.
- Seed pearls: tiny pearls, usually under 2mm, often used in antique jewelry for delicate details and mourning pieces.
Image: seed pearls in antique pieces.
Identifying Pearls
Telling real pearls from imitations can be tricky. Here are some pointers:
- Coating: Imitation pearls may be glass, shell or plastic beads coated to look like nacre. The coating chips easily, often around the drill hole.
- Texture: Real pearls feel slightly gritty because of their layered nacre. Gently rub two pearls together, or against the edge of your front teeth. Real pearls feel slightly rough; imitations feel smooth.
- Luster: Real pearls have a soft glow that seems to come from within. Imitations may be shiny, but the shine looks artificial.
- Weight: Real pearls have some weight; imitations can feel light.
- Shape and uniformity: Real pearls are rarely perfectly round and may have slight blemishes. Imitations are often very uniform.
Caring for Your Pearls
- Store them separately: Pearls scratch easily. Keep them in a soft pouch or fabric-lined box, away from direct sunlight and heat.
- Wipe them clean: After wearing, wipe pearls with a soft cloth dampened with warm water to remove any residue. For more stubborn dirt, use a very mild soap solution, then let them air dry completely before storing.
- Avoid harsh chemicals: Keep pearls away from perfume, cosmetics and cleaning products, which can damage the nacre. Put your pearls on last.
- Strung pearls: Quality pearls are knotted on silk, which weakens over time. Have them restrung regularly if you wear them often.
For more on looking after older pieces, read our guide to cleaning antique jewelry safely.