Antique and vintage jewelry holds a unique place in history, capturing the artistic movements and social influences of each era. From the elegant designs of the Georgian period to the modernism of Art Deco, every era has its own distinct style. In this guide, we explore the major antique and vintage jewelry eras, their styles and materials, and the social and historical context behind them.
Georgian Era (1714 to 1837)
Georgian jewelry, named after the four King Georges of England, is highly sought after for its handcrafted beauty and rarity. Nature, birds and flowers are common motifs, often set with rose cut and old mine cut diamonds. Gold, silver and precious stones were used, typically in closed back settings with foil behind the stones. Read more about Georgian jewelry.
Victorian Era (1837 to 1901)
The Victorian era, named after Queen Victoria, produced a vast range of styles shaped by the stages of the Queen's life. Early Victorian jewelry was sentimental and romantic, while mid-Victorian jewelry was more somber following the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Late Victorian jewelry saw a return of colorful gemstones, diamonds and playful designs. Read more about Victorian jewelry.
Art Nouveau (1890 to 1910)
Art Nouveau was a reaction against industrial production, celebrating the beauty of handmade work. Its jewelry features flowers, insects and the female form in flowing, asymmetrical lines, often in gold, enamel, glass and semi-precious stones. Read more about Art Nouveau jewelry.
Edwardian Era (1901 to 1915)
Edward VII reigned from 1901 to 1910, but the Edwardian style in jewelry is usually dated to around 1915. It is known for its elegance and lightness, borrowing the garlands, bows and lace of the 18th-century French court. Platinum, diamonds, pearls and milgrain detail are its signatures. Read more about Edwardian jewelry.
Art Deco (1920 to 1935)
Art Deco was shaped by the Roaring Twenties and its celebration of modern life and technology. Designs are bold, geometric and streamlined, with contrasting colors. Platinum was the metal of choice, with diamonds, black onyx, rubies, emeralds and sapphires often set in symmetrical patterns. Read more about Art Deco jewelry.
Retro Era (1935 to 1950)
During World War II, platinum was restricted for military use, so high-end pieces were made in gold, often rose and yellow gold. Designs were large, bold and three-dimensional, with geometric shapes and curves. Colored stones such as citrine, amethyst and aquamarine were popular, often combined with small diamonds.
Mid-Century Modern (1950 to 1970)
Mid-century jewelry embraced post-war optimism and new technology. Platinum and white gold returned alongside yellow gold, and designs favored clean lines, abstract forms and a touch of whimsy. Diamonds remained a classic choice, while colorful gemstones and new materials such as Lucite became more common. Read more about 1950s jewelry.
The 1960s to the 1980s
The Pop Art and Mod movements of the 1960s brought bright colors, bold shapes and playful materials such as plastic and enamel. The 1970s saw a turn toward natural materials and a bohemian style, with turquoise and textured gold. The 1980s were all about statement pieces: oversized earrings, chunky gold chains and jewelry made for power dressing.
Understanding the Context
Jewelry trends were shaped by the social, economic and political landscapes of their time. The lavish designs of the Edwardian era reflected its prosperity, while the large gold designs of the Retro era were a direct result of platinum's scarcity during World War II.
The evolution of jewelry styles also mirrored the changing roles of women. The sentimental lockets and cameos of the Victorian era suited the domestic ideals of the time, while the bold geometric designs of Art Deco arrived with the flapper and the new, modern woman.
If you are looking at an antique engagement ring, the era also tells you a great deal about its diamonds. Read our guide to old mine cut and old European cut diamonds.