The 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris brought together the elegance, glamour, functionality and modernity of the age. The linear symmetry on show was a distinct departure from the flowing, organic curves of Art Nouveau. The name Art Deco, taken from the exhibition's title, came into wide use in the 1960s.
Jewelry production slowed dramatically during World War I, and when the war ended, the values and traditions of the Edwardian era went with it. The role of women had changed during the war, with many women filling the jobs of men sent to the front. The Roaring Twenties followed, bringing a more decadent style in fashion and jewelry. Some liberated women wore trousers for the first time, though dresses remained the standard for evening. Hemlines rose to show more of the leg, with splits to allow for the exuberant dances of the time. The tango, the Charleston and the foxtrot all needed more freedom of movement.
Women followed the Hollywood stars they saw in the new movie theaters, and the pictures brought about many changes in fashion. Hair was cut shorter, revealing earrings, usually screw backs, as many modern women did not want to pierce their ears.
Art Deco jewelry was linear and geometric, with bright colors and abstract patterns. Diamonds and platinum were again popular, set in bracelets, rings, brooches and miniature cocktail watches. Long strands of pearls were worn with low-backed dresses, wrapped around the neck several times or draped down the back. Cultured pearls became popular with the middle classes.
Art Deco dress clips were worn in pairs at the neckline, and were also clipped onto shoes, bags, hats and jackets.
The 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb inspired an interest in all things Egyptian, especially turquoise, carnelian and lapis lazuli set in gold. These became popular in Art Deco jewelry along with black onyx, coral, jade, rock crystal, diamonds, sapphires and rubies, set in platinum, silver and white metal to show off contrasting tones and shapes.