The Edwardian era began with the death of Queen Victoria in 1901. She was succeeded by Edward VII and his stylish Danish wife, Queen Alexandra, who set the standard in fashion and jewelry for society to follow. Edward reigned until 1910, but the Edwardian style in jewelry is usually dated to around 1915. Edwardian designs were intricate, delicate, feminine and lacy, complementing the elegance and sophistication of the era. Platinum and diamonds were the defining combination, together with precious stones such as rubies and emeralds.
Amethysts and pearls were particular favorites of Queen Alexandra, who wore choker necklaces known as dog collars. Peridot also appears in many Edwardian pieces and is said to have been a favorite of King Edward.
Platinum's strength allowed new, delicate and intricate lacy designs, often finished with milgrain, a border of tiny beads or grains that gives a soft edge to the setting.
Rolled gold, a layer of gold bonded over a base metal, was also refined at this time, making fashionable jewelry more accessible. Garlands, hearts, birds, leaves, flowers and curving shapes in openwork white metal were created by fine craftsmen.