Antique jewelry is a treasure trove of gemstones with storied pasts and unique beauty. Once the highlight of high society's finery, these stones offer a window into bygone eras and the artistry that defined them. Here are the gemstones that continue to capture the imagination of collectors.
Rose Cut Diamonds: Romantic Elegance
The rose cut diamond, with its flat base and dome of triangular facets, captures the romance of antique jewelry. A Georgian ring or early Victorian brooch set with rose cuts has a soft glow, made for the candlelit evenings in which it was first worn. Read more about antique diamond cuts.
Old Mine Cut Diamonds: Handcrafted Splendor
Old mine cut diamonds are treasured for their hand-cut character and warm, broad flashes of light. Victorian engagement rings and lockets often feature them, their slightly asymmetrical shapes a record of the cutter's hand.
Natural Pearls: Luster from the Sea
The natural pearl, now a rarity, once graced the necklines and wrists of Edwardian society. A delicate Belle Époque pearl necklace shows the unaltered beauty of these organic gems.
Cameos: The Art of Carving
Cameos carved in shell, onyx or agate depict scenes from mythology and portraits of classical beauty. A well-carved Victorian cameo brooch or pair of earrings is often the centerpiece of an antique collection.
Demantoid Garnet: Green Fire from Russia
Demantoid garnets from Russia's Ural Mountains are prized for their fire, which can exceed that of diamond. Their vivid green, sometimes described as absinthe green, appears in Edwardian drop earrings, Art Nouveau jewels and the eyes of serpent bracelets.
Kashmir Sapphires: Cornflower Blue
Kashmir sapphires, with their velvety cornflower blue, were discovered in the early 1880s and mined intensively for only a few years. They quickly became some of the most prized sapphires in the world, and appear in late Victorian and Edwardian jewelry.
Spinel: The Misidentified Majesty
Before modern gemology, red spinel was often mistaken for ruby. Some of the most famous "rubies" in royal collections are in fact spinels, and today the stone is appreciated in its own right.
Opal: Nature's Palette
Victorian opal jewelry enchants with its play-of-color. Set in an antique brooch or ring, an opal is both beautiful and a conversation starter. Read our guide to opals.
Amethyst: Royal Purple
Once valued alongside emerald and ruby, amethyst appears in antique tiaras, rings and brooches, a sign of its historical prestige and enduring appeal.
Each of these gemstones carries a legacy that transcends time. Whether it is the softness of a rose cut diamond, the deep blue of a Kashmir sapphire or the carving of a cameo, these gems continue to fascinate, and each new owner adds a chapter to their story.