One of the joys of choosing an antique engagement ring is the sheer variety of styles. Each era had its favorites, and many have names that are rarely used today. I'm Tiffany, a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) and a GIA-certified diamond grader, and this is my A to Z of the antique ring styles you are most likely to come across.
For a broader introduction, read my guide to choosing an antique engagement ring. To understand the diamonds themselves, see old mine cut vs old European cut diamonds.
Art Deco geometric: Art Deco rings of the 1920s and 1930s favor clean lines, rectangles, octagons and stepped shapes, usually in platinum or white gold, often with a central diamond framed by smaller stones. They feel crisp and architectural.
Belcher and buttercup settings: Both hold a single stone in claws, but the claws come from different places. In a belcher setting, the claws are cut from the band itself, tapering up to grip the diamond, so the band and setting are one continuous piece. In a buttercup setting, the stone sits in a separate fluted, scalloped head, shaped like the petals of a buttercup, with a claw rising from each petal. To tell them apart, look at the ring from the side: claws flowing straight up out of the band mean a belcher, and a petal-shaped cup sitting on top of the band means a buttercup. Both were popular solitaire settings in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras.
Bypass: In a bypass ring, the two ends of the band sweep past each other rather than meeting, often with a stone at each end. The design gives a ring a sense of movement.
Closed back: Georgian rings usually have closed back settings, with the backs of the stones enclosed in metal and often backed with foil to enhance their sparkle in candlelight. Closed back rings should never be soaked in water.
Cluster: A cluster ring has a central stone surrounded by smaller stones, creating a larger, flower-like head. Clusters were popular from the Georgian era onward, and an old cut diamond cluster has wonderful presence on the hand.
Daisy cluster: A daisy cluster is a round cluster of stones arranged like the petals of a daisy, often around a colored center. It was especially popular in the Edwardian era.
Eternity and half eternity: An eternity ring has stones set all the way around the band, while a half eternity has stones across the top half only. A full eternity ring can't usually be resized, so knowing your size matters.
Five-stone: A five-stone ring has a row of five stones across the top, often graduating in size toward the center. Five-stone rings in diamonds, or diamonds alternating with rubies or sapphires, were a classic Victorian and Edwardian engagement ring.
Gypsy: A gypsy ring has its stones set flush into a solid band, often within an engraved star, so that nothing projects above the surface. It was popular in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras and is very practical.
Half hoop: A half hoop has a row of stones set across the top half of the band, usually with a carved, scrolling gallery beneath. It is one of the most characteristic Victorian engagement ring styles.
Halo: A halo ring frames a central stone with a ring of smaller diamonds. Halos were popular in the Victorian era and again in the Art Deco period, often around a ruby, sapphire or emerald.
Illusion setting: An illusion setting surrounds a small diamond with polished white metal, cut with facets of its own, to make the stone look larger. It was popular from the 1930s to the 1950s.
Navette and boat head: Navette, French for little boat, describes a long oval head that runs along the finger, set with diamonds or a cluster of stones. The name boat head describes the same shape. Navette is usually used for the more refined version with pointed ends, especially in Edwardian platinum, while boat head is often used for late Victorian rings with softer, rounder ends. Either way, the style elongates the finger beautifully.
Old cut solitaire: A single old mine or old European cut diamond is the purest antique engagement ring. The hand-cut diamond, with its broad flashes of light, is the focus.
Platinum-topped: Many Edwardian rings are made of gold with platinum on top, where the diamonds are set. The white platinum shows off the diamonds, while the gold shank is warm against the skin. Earlier Georgian and Victorian rings often used silver in the same way.
Snake: Snake rings, a symbol of eternal love, were made famous by Queen Victoria, whose engagement ring from Prince Albert was a gold snake set with an emerald. Read more in our guide to Victorian symbolism in jewelry.
Three-stone: A three-stone ring has a central stone flanked by two others, a balanced and timeless design that has been popular since the 19th century.
Toi et moi: Toi et moi, French for you and me, is a ring with two stones set side by side, representing two people. Napoleon famously gave Joséphine a toi et moi ring with a sapphire and a diamond.
If you would like help choosing, you can book a video consultation with me and see any ring up close. Our size guide will help you find your size, and every antique ring comes with free insured delivery within the US and a six-month warranty.